Clothing Alterations and Repairs

Preface Introduction 1. How to Use this Book and Tools of the Trade How to Use this Book Tools of the Trade Types of Pins Types of Rulers Marking Tools Needles Thread Machines Pressing/ Ironing Hardware and Tools 2. Working with Alterations, Repairs and Clients Before you get started The Bare Necessities Sewing Space The Deluxe Sewing Space Step Two: The Logistics of Clothing Alterations and Repairs Finding the Problem Step Three: Working with clients Identifying fabric Fiber Content Structure: Wovens, Knits, and Nonwovens 3. Bottom Hems Shortening Measuring Pants, Shorts, Skirts and Dresses for Hemming Serge and Blind Hem Three Methods: Blind Hemming Machine, Home Machine Blind Hem, or Hand Stitch Twice Turn Hem Cadet Cut Hem Knitwear Coverstitch Hem Knitwear Faux Coverstitch using a Twin Needle Twice-Turned Hem On Eveningwear and Formalwear Napkin Roll Hem Hand Stitch Hems: Cross Stitch, Vertical Hem Stitch, Prick/ Pick Stitch Cross Stitch Vertical Hem Stitch Prick/ Pick Stitch Lengthening Bottom Hems: Maxing Out Adding Fabric Bias Tape Adding Fabric Adding Lace 4. Top Hems Knitwear Coverstitch Knitwear Faux Coverstitch using a Twin Needle Shirttail Hem Lined Suit Jacket Hem Unlined Suit Jacket Hems Maxing Out Seam Allowance Lengthening Suit Jacket Hems 5. Taking in Bottoms Back Gap Waistbands: Using Elastic Side Seams/ Outseams & Inseam Tips Sample Measurement Table Inseams Darts/Pleats/ Tucks Ease/ Gathers Taking in a Skirt or Pant with a Side Zipper Side Seams Inseams Waistbands: Using Seam Allowance, Elastic, or Gussets Waistbands: Using Seam Allowance Waistbands: Using Elastic Waistbands: Using Gussets/ Farbic Panels 6. Letting Out Bottoms Side Seams Inseams Waistbands: Using Seam Allowance, Elastic, or Gussets Waistbands: Using Seam Allowance 7. Jeans Taking in the Center Back/ Back Gap: Jeans Jeans Hem with Option to Distress Original Jean Hem Taking in the Outseams/ Inseams

Chelsey Byrd Lewallen