Hickendorff, A: Gabon

Contents Introduction vii PART ONE GENERAL INFORMATION 1 Chapter 1 Background Information 3 Geography 3, Climate 3, History 3, Government and politics 12, Economy 12, People 16, Language 17, Religion 17, Culture 18 Chapter 2 Natural History and Conservation 23 Habitats and vegetation 23, Conservation 25, Wildlife 32 Chapter 3 Practical Information 43 When to visit 43, Highlights 43, Suggested itineraries 43, Tourist information 44, Tour operators 45, Red tape 46, Embassies 46, Getting there and away 47, Safety 49, Women travellers 50, Gay travellers 50, Travellers with disabilities 50, Travelling with children 50, What to take 50, Money 52, Budgeting 53, Getting around 53, Accommodation 57, Eating and drinking 58, Public holidays and events 59, Shopping 61, Media and communications 61, Cultural etiquette 64, Travelling positively 65 Chapter 4 Health 67 Preparations 67, In Gabon 70 PART TWO THE GUIDE 79 Chapter 5 Libreville and L'Estuaire 81 Getting there and away 82, Orientation 84, Getting around 85, Tourist information and local tour operators 87, Where to stay 88, Where to eat and drink 90, Entertainment and nightlife 93, Shopping 94, Other practicalities 95, What to see and do 97, Around Libreville and L'Estuaire 99 Chapter 6 Moyen Ogooue 107 Lambarene 107, Ndjole 114 Chapter 7 Ngounie 117 Mouila 117, Sindara 120, Fougamou 120, Ndende 120, Massif du Chaillu 120 Chapter 8 Ogooue Maritime 123 Port Gentil 123, Fernan Vaz Lagoon 131, Loango National Park 132, Gamba 136 Chapter 9 Nyanga 139 Tchibanga 139, Moukalaba-Doudou National Park 142, Mayumba 143 Chapter 10 Woleu-Ntem 145 Oyem 146, Bitam 147, North of Bitam 148, Mitzic 148, Minkebe National Park 150 Chapter 11 Ogooue-Ivindo 151 Lope National Park 151, Makokou 158, Ivindo National Park 159 Chapter 12 Haut Ogooue 163 Franceville 163, Moanda 168, Mounana 169, Bakoumba and Lekedi Park 170, The Bateke Plateau 173, Leconi 174 Chapter 13 Ogooue-Lolo 177 Koulamoutou 177, Lastoursville 179 Appendix 1 Language 181

Annelies Hickendorff first set foot in Gabon in 2006 during a 25,000km overland journey. Entranced by the country's exceptional natural beauty she has been returning ever since.