Greece: The Peloponnese

Introduction vi Part One General Information 1 Chapter 1 Background Information 3 Geography and climate 3, Natural history 3, Mythology 8, History 12, Government and politics 18, Economy 18, People 19, Language 20, Religion 21, Education 21, Culture 22 Chapter 2 Practical Information 23 When to visit 23, Highlights and suggested itineraries 23, Tour operators 25, Red tape 26, Getting there and away 27, Health 29, Safety 31, Disabled travellers 32, Travelling with children 32, Gay and lesbian travellers 32, What to take 32, Money and budgeting 34, Getting around 35, Maps 38, Accommodation 38, Eating and drinking 40, Public holidays 46, Shopping 46, Arts and entertainment 47, Museums and archaeological sites 47, Photography 47, Media and communications 47, Buying a property 48, Cultural etiquette 49, Travelling positively 49 Part TWO T HE GUIDE 51 Chapter 3 Corinth and the Argolid 53 Corinth 53, Nemea 60, Mycenae 63, Argos 70, Nafplio 72, Epidavros 78, The southeast 82, The southwest 85, Recommended walk 87 Chapter 4 L aconia 89 Sparta and Mystra 89, Geraki 105, West of Monemvasia 106, Monemvasia 107, South of Monemvasia 110, North of Monemvasia 115, Up the coast: Geraki to Astros 116, Over the top: Mount Parnonas 117, Recommended walk 119 Chapter 5 the mani 121 History 121, Into the Exo Mani 123, Kardamyli 124, Stoupa 129, Into the mountains 133, South from Stoupa 135, Itylo Bay 136, Areopoli 137, Deep into the Mani 138, South to Gerolimenas 140, Gerolimenas 141, Down to Cape Tenaro 142, Cape Tenaro 143, Up the east coast 143, Gythio and around 145, Recommended walk 147 Chapter 6 messinia 151 Kalamata 151, Ancient Messene 156, South to Koroni 161, Koroni 162, Finikounda 164, Methoni 165, Pylos and Gialova 167, Northern Messinia 176, Recommended walk 178 Chapter 7 arcadia 181 Tripoli 181, Megalopoli 185, Karitena 186, Andritsena 188, Th e Lousios Gorge 191, Vytina and around 196, Olympia 197, Th e West Coast 206, Recommended walk 206 Chapter 8 the north 209 Ancient

Andrew Bostock has been travelling to the Greek Peloponnese for 20 years, and moved there with his family in 2005. His articles have been published in The Observer, Conde Nast Traveller, TNT and Olive.