Willoughby, R: North Korea

PART ONE GENERAL INFORMATION 1 Chapter 1 Background Information 3Geography 3, Climate 6, Natural history and conservation 6, History 8, Economy 50, People 62, Language 67, Religion 68, Culture 71Chapter 2 Practical Information 77When to visit 77, Highlights 77, Suggested itineraries 79, Tour operators 79, Red tape 82, Embassies and consulates 83, Getting there and away 85, Health 89, Safety 93, What to take 93, Money 93, Getting around 94, Accommodation 95, Eating and drinking 96, Nightlife 97, Shopping 98, Photography 100, Media and communications 100, Time zone 103, Cultural etiquette 103PART TWO THE GUIDE 107 Chapter 3 Pyongyang 108Geography 109, History 109, Getting there and away 116, Getting around 116, Where to stay 122, Where to eat and drink 124, Entertainment and nightlife 127, Shopping 127, Other practicalities 127, What to see and do 128Chapter 4 Pyongyang to Sariwon, Kaesong and Panmunjom 153Sariwon 153, Kaesong 158, Panmunjom and the DMZ 165Chapter 5 Nampo, Mount Kuwol and Haeju 171Nampo 172, Mount Kuwol 177, Haeju 179Chapter 6 North from Pyongyang: Pyongsong and Mount Myohyang 184Pyongsong 184, Myohyangsan 187Chapter 7 East Coast Central: Pyongyang to Wonsan 197Wonsan 197Chapter 8 Wonsan to Mount Kumgang, or Kumgangsan 204 Kumgang flora and fauna 204, Kumgangsan 205Chapter 9 East Coast to Tanchon 215 Hamhung 215, Hungnam 218, Tanchon 219, Komdok 220 Chapter 10 Northernmost Corner 223 Chongjin 226, Chilbosan 229, Rajin and Sonbong, collectively known as Rason 232, Hoeryong 239 Chapter 11 Mount Paektu/Paektusan 243 Flora and fauna 245, Getting there and away 245, Where to stay 246, What to see and do 246 Chapter 12 The Border with China and Beyond 252 Sinuiju 252, Dandong 256, South from Dandong 262, North from Dandong 262Appendix 1 Language 271 Appendix 2 Further Information 274 Index 284

Robert Willoughby is a journalist who has lived and worked in the US, Russia, Vietnam and China and is the author of the Bradt guide to North Korea.